October 28, 2013

Hemlock Tee Pattern Review

I made my first Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios recently and I say first because it is such a comfy shirt it will probably be the first of many, despite the teething pains.  The hemlock neck is supposed to be wide and fall slightly off one shoulder which isn't how I have worn it here but I have super narrow shoulders so you can bet I will be pulling it up constantly until I get used to it falling off to one side - I do like the drop shoulders rather than setting in a sleeve.

Because I squeezed this top out of some scrap material I had handy, I didn't quite have enough fabric for the widest point of the sleeve and that did affect how it came together under my arm!  I don't have a photo and you can't really notice it so I am leaving it as is.
This isn't the first time I have sewed a stretch knit but it is the first time I have sewed with such a lightweight Jersey which I found far more delicate to handle - although it isn't as fine as the tissue knit that Jen from Grainline used.  The iron was brilliant at taking away the slight wave I had created when sewing my hem.  I used a twin stretch-knit needle in my Janome machine with a regular straight stitch.  I scooped the hem every so slightly at the back, it is a roomy tee but I don't feel 'pregnant' in it.   
I originally made the neckband the dimension Jen suggests (4") but found it way too wide - I had obviously been too cautious with my seam allowances.  I unpicked the whole thing - ughh, cut it down then re-attached.  The actual neckband finish was brilliant though, I will use that method again.  I attempted to do a twin stitch to hold my neckband flat but forgot to put my walking foot on... of course I didn't stop stitching until I had gone around the whole entire front, it was super uneven and looked terrible (also due to my narrow seam allowance) let me tell you that was a mother to un-pick! 

I don't usually wear something so plain and flat at the front as it emphasizes my post feeding chest so I might even try some colour blocking or a higher neckline as this clever lady has done next time I make it.  So, if you have more of a pear shape figure - this is likely to be how the hemlock will look on you!  I am roughly 5’6″ tall.