Fashion Accessories and Materials in the early 1900's

Image: French Garden House

I borrowed a fabulous book from the library called, Fashion since 1900: The complete source book by John Peacock.  It gave me a greater insight into the fashion, particularly looking at wedding and evening dresses, accessories and fabrics around from the 1900's.

1910 - 1914 Garments and accessories in this era favoured silk (chiffon, satin, crepe, taffeta, organdie), peacock and ostrich feathers, pin-tucks, machine made lace, dolman sleeves, cotton, bows, linen, velvet, wool, self-covered buttons, crystal beads and wax flowers (above image), silk gauze veils, broderie anglaise trim, jet beads.

1915 - 1929 Materials used were similar to the above with the introduction of drop waists, lace caps, beaded head-dresses, waist corsages, narrow beaded straps, godets, felt cloche, beaded chiffon with piped velvet, handkerchief hemline, plastic beads, tubular dresses, glass beads, drop earrings, machine embroidered silk.

Designer: Norman Hartnell, 1933 - Photo: V&A

1930 - 1940 The skirt suit with knife pleats, becomes popular, leg of mutton sleeves, glass beads, pannelled skirts, short hair set into rows of waves, silk chiffon veils, pearl and silk flower head-dress, beaded and embroidered skull caps, coloured glass brooches, dresses cut on bias.

1955 - 1959 Brides were wearing brocade bugle beads, organdie, patterned silk-chiffon, silk tuelle, lace, scallops, knee length frocks, bows, small beaded headresses, silk grossgrain, strapless gowns with stiffened petticoats, lace, velvet bows and seer sucker.

I lost interest after the 50's especially after the introduction of polyester and lame.  The Fashion Museum at Bath is on my to-do hit list while I'm here in England as I believe it has a bigger collection of historical fashion.  I was fortunate enough to visit the Wedding Dresses 1775 - 2014 exhibition at the V&A when we first arrived in London last year.  I really appreciate the history, the handiwork and accessibility to enjoy such beautiful exhibitions, it really has been a highlight of life in London for me.

Discover: The True Cost of Fast Fashion

Two months ago I watched the brilliant documentary, The True Cost.  The movie highlighted the complexities of the Fast Fashion industry with a massive impact on our environment and the livelihoods of those who make our clothes.  It was moving, confronting and I'm pretty sure you will find it hard to watch without making any changes to your buying habits.

Photo: People Tree

Through the movie I discovered the inspiring brand, People Tree who are based here in London.  Not only do People Tree produce ethically made garments they also support rural communities by using organic cotton to produce their clothing, everything is produced with consideration for the planet and people. 

"Slow Fashion means standing up against exploitation, family separation, 

slum cities and pollution – all the things that make fast fashion so successful." 

Saffia Minney

Photo: People Tree

In the past the most ethical shopping I managed to do was buying costume jewellery that supported a good cause.  As a family we love a good thrift shop (hubby finds the best things - I do not!), I sew and fully believe in the handmade revolution :-)  But now I've been challenged to go one step further.

Photo: The Keep

I recently made my first intentional purchase of ethical clothing when I stumbled across this fabulous shop in Brixton, The Keep.  I was out on one of my exploring-London jaunts and was so thrilled to find a pair of jeans that I was in need of, they were ethically made, looked good and were comparably priced to brand name jeans!  Putting the cost of actual pounds aside, I am so happy every time I put them on knowing the cost of making my jeans did not negatively impact our environment nor another person's life... that my friend's is priceless.

Photo: The Keep

There was a great article in the Huffington Post UK recently about The Keep's owner Kate Richards and why she founded her sustainable boutique. A really great read and prompt to support local business over chain stores.

Photo: Better Dressed

Lastly, my friend Laura started a lovely blog, Better Dressed which has lots of practical ideas on how to change your wardrobe, where to find better brands and lots of interesting information on the garment industry etc... I know all the information can feel overwhelming at times but I strongly believe that if we all made at least one change in how we 'consume', the world would be a different place.

Discover: Spring / Summer Colour Prediction 2016

Lela Rose Via New York Fashion Week Live

Lela Rose

A rainbow palette is the hot tip for Spring / Summer 2016 according to Vogue, with plenty of neutrals and muted tones among the brighter yellows, oranges and reds.  Here are some of my favourites from New York Fashion Week, dominated by my new discovery of designer Lela Rose.

Tory Burch via Vogue, Photo: Indigital

Thakoon via Vogue, Photo: Indigital

Lela Rose via NY Fashion week live

Lela Rose via Zimbio

There are some fabulous bridesmaid dresses right there and maybe for the more unconventional bride?  I see some beautiful flower hair pins in my etsy store for next season :-)  

Life in London - A snapshot of where we live

Sep 2014

We've just past the one year mark of our new life in London which still feels surreal.  We've had lots of lovely times and feel quite settled but I have to say those first 3-6 months were a killer.  I did so much reading, as much research as I possibly could about moving your family overseas but I think somethings you just have to live it and find out for yourself.  Everyone's experience will be different... a bit like childbirth!

We live in the basement flat of this lovely old home, it's teeny-tiny - London style! The kids school is at the bottom of our road and it is lovely to walk there and back every day instead of the half hr bumper-to-bumper commute we had in Canberra.

The history of Crystal Palace is pretty special and we think it's a really cool place to live.  Crystal Palace park is fabulous and there are plenty of trees and open spaces which help this Aussie girl feel not so cramped.  I do miss gum trees, blue skies and the landscape of home, especially Canberra.  We arrived here going into winter on the back of a Canberra winter (depressing) so I was positively giddy when it finally started warming up this Summer.  I have to say,  with the exception of a few warm days it didn't really feel like Summer - sad face.

This is the rec at the bottom of our street with the school in the background.  The kids have settled in really well - I am super proud of them.  Josiah started full-time school in November, he was only 4.5yrs and had a wobbly first week (too soon for this mama) but recovered nicely.  Anya finally started in February - she was off school for four months solid, it nearly broke me.... that is a whole other post for another time.

The last photo I'll leave you with is one of the 'selling points' for our rental here.... yard and 'summer house'!  We have thoroughly enjoyed the extra space over Spring / Summer, lots of picnics, dinner on the deck and digging in the back corner for Josiah.  It currently houses some unpacked boxes (due to lack of space inside ;) a dryer and a kids crafting area.  Thank goodness we were used to living simply but this place has really challenged our understanding of small spaces.  

Discover: Inspirational Sewing Blogs

Photo: Felicia Semple - The Craft Sessions

The Craft Sessions is currently rating number one on my 'virtual bookshelf'.  Creator Felicia Semple and team run crafting retreats in country Victoria - good food, making and good company - sounds inviting.. maybe when I return to Australia.  Felicia has written a lot of thoughtful posts on crafting that have really resonated with me and she has great taste in Fabric.

Photo: Ada Spragg

Another top shelf sewing blog is Ada Spragg.  Sophie should receive commissions from the many sewing patterns she has undoubtedly encouraged people to purchase simply through her fabulous interpretations, styling and fabric choices.  I don't know how many times I have seen something Sophie has made and thought, oh love that... looked up the pattern and thought, wow - I would never have given that a second thought.

Photo: Trene - Groovy Baby and Mama

Trene from Groovy Baby and Mama inspires me to choose great fabric!  After reading some of Felcia's posts on the Craft Sessions, I realised I buy too much fabric that I love for it's colour or patterns but realistically I would never wear them, arghhh.  I usually hate black and grey on kids but they never look out of place on Trene's stylish children, must be the Danish factor :-)

Watch this space for the start of my stash busting and thoughtful, intentional fabric purchases, oh once I get my sewing mojo back :-)

Sewing: Freestyle Quilt Mash Up

The best way to de-stash before an international move is have a family member have a special birthday and be determined to make a special handmade present while you are packing!  I'm not sure if it was good therapy or plain stupidity.  It's the most fun I've had making a quilt though - I call it my de-stash, free-style, mash-up of goodness.  Sorry if your eyeballs are hurting, my niece LOVES colour...

My intention was to use this pattern for the whole quilt which is stunning but I didn't have the patience for it in my time frame.  You can see a block of chevron in the first photo which coincidentally looks like a tree :-)

The back and binding were made from scraps.  I had lectured myself on not buying any new fabric for this project but sadly had some big patches to fill in, so I caved.  It was the last project I completed with my beautiful sewing gals - I miss Tuesday nights at my place.

Visit: Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty

via The Pandorian

This week I visited the Alexander McQueen Exhibition, Savage Beauty at the V&A Museum.  It was a visceral experience which left me in a weird but happy place.  I would highly recommend booking tickets soon as the earliest available tickets are around mid-May.  If you live local and frequent the V&A like I do, you could become a museum member and go back as often as you like without waiting for a time slot.

The exhibition evolved in complexity as you progressed through the rooms.  I experienced almost every emotion on the spectrum in a short period of time, from calm to overwhelming.  I thoroughly enjoyed the pieces themselves, the workmanship, materials, textures, manipulation and pairing of textiles and even the bizarre.  It was a spectacular showcase of some amazing works of art, I can't wait to go back.

via Beautyandthedirt

via Beautyandthedirt

Discover: Alabama Chanin

I just discovered Alabama Chanin and I'm just so excited about their cool techniques and point of difference in the fashion industry!!!  A company whose ethos is inspired by the principles of the slow food movement and are fully invested in environmentally responsible products and materials, ahhh so very cool.

Not just that, their craftsmanship is top quality and everything is truly beautiful to look at, a work of art.  While I prefer the simpler, un-embellished pieces I so appreciate the details - the embroidery, embellishment and hard work that has gone into their h-a-n-d-s-e-w-n  garments.....woah.  They do machine make clothes too and primarily use locally sourced organic cotton.

I was so excited I purchased founder, Natalie Chanin's, Hand-Embellishing Knit fabrics course on Craftsy.  I'm not planning on sewing along and making the jacket included but Natalie is such a gifted teacher,  I've enjoyed what I have learnt so far.  I was lucky to get the course on sale too... I love learning :-)  Of course there are books, courses, sewing supplies and Natalie's journal has some really interesting, thought provoking articles under the Beautiful life and Inspiration category.  I'll leave you to get lost in the world of A.Chanin yourself....

All photos via Alabama Chanin

Sewing: Woven Hemlock Tee

Nani Iro - Shine Many Ways was my choice of fabric for my first woven Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios.  It's my second Hemlock and while I'm not convinced it's the best pattern for my body shape I like a comfy shirt and Jen's patterns.  The Ivory fabric is a lot more 'latte' than Ivory, I feel like I need some contrasting Navy around my neck or a tiny pocket :-)

I would also recommend using a fine or new needle as I didn't bother changing mine from my last few projects and wished I had after some unpicking the cotton sateen it left me with visible holes.  They have already started fading after a little smoothing out with my fingers and then ironing.  The fabric crinkles a bit but it's sooo nice to touch and wear.

Amber from Fancy Tiger Crafts cut her sleeves on the bias and I might do that if there is a next time.  I have enough arm movement but wished there was slightly more ease.  I may alter the sleeve length to above the elbow if I have any shrinkage - even though the fabric is pre-washed.

Overall I'm happy with my new 'Spring' top - it's a nice quick sew.  It was freezing outside on Saturday when we took these photos... Come on Spring weather, this Aussie is SICK of the cold.  We didn't ever intend for back to back Winter's on moving to the UK but that was the result of a long visa wait, boooo.

I remember the under arm seam on my last Hemlock tripped me up - I tried to sew it at too much of an angle - I think the picture on Jen's tutorial wasn't real clear.  Ironing the seams the way she instructs is important and so is clipping under the arm seam too for woven fabric.  Some lazy person hasn't unpacked her over-locker yet!!

I hope someone finds these photos helpful, they are the sort of pictures I look for when I am stuck on something.  Clearly I don't pattern match!

Sewing: Book Week Costumes - Oliver and S Cape

We got to experience our first book week since living here in London!  Something I had always looked forward to doing since having school age kids but our Canberra school didn't ever participate, now I feel somewhat relieved.  However, I did enjoy making the Red Riding Hood cape from the book, Oliver and S - Little Things to Sew.  The outside fabric is just cheap lining which cost me five pound, the button one pound and the lining is an old sheet.  I bought Anya's 'Merida' dress on e-bay second hand and despite Anya's hair colour being perfect for Merida, we decided Maid Marion was a true book character.

Anya is seven years old, so I made the large size as suggested and lengthened it by eight inches.  I found the armholes were in a little bit of a weird place regardless of the length.  Having said that the pattern comes together beautifully and I found it a satisfying and easy sew (read_no fussing over size adjustments_).

No Maid Marion is complete without her side-kick Robin Hood!!!  I surprised the kids with a bow and arrow just before taking the photos - they were chuffed!  When I decided to make Anya's cape I completely tossed out the idea of making two costumes, I'm not stupid.  I went against my no polyester policy and bought Josiah's outfit online too - our dress up box is slowly being replenished.