October 17, 2015

Fashion Accessories and Materials in the early 1900's

Image: French Garden House
I borrowed a fabulous book from the library called, Fashion since 1900: The complete source book by John Peacock.  It gave me a greater insight into the fashion, particularly looking at wedding and evening dresses, accessories and fabrics around from the 1900's.

1910 - 1914 Garments and accessories in this era favoured silk (chiffon, satin, crepe, taffeta, organdie), peacock and ostrich feathers, pin-tucks, machine made lace, dolman sleeves, cotton, bows, linen, velvet, wool, self-covered buttons, crystal beads and wax flowers (above image), silk gauze veils, broderie anglaise trim, jet beads.

1915 - 1929 Materials used were similar to the above with the introduction of drop waists, lace caps, beaded head-dresses, waist corsages, narrow beaded straps, godets, felt cloche, beaded chiffon with piped velvet, handkerchief hemline, plastic beads, tubular dresses, glass beads, drop earrings, machine embroidered silk.
Designer: Norman Hartnell, 1933 - Photo: V&A
1930 - 1940 The skirt suit with knife pleats, becomes popular, leg of mutton sleeves, glass beads, pannelled skirts, short hair set into rows of waves, silk chiffon veils, pearl and silk flower head-dress, beaded and embroidered skull caps, coloured glass brooches, dresses cut on bias.

1955 - 1959 Brides were wearing brocade bugle beads, organdie, patterned silk-chiffon, silk tuelle, lace, scallops, knee length frocks, bows, small beaded headresses, silk grossgrain, strapless gowns with stiffened petticoats, lace, velvet bows and seer sucker.

I lost interest after the 50's especially after the introduction of polyester and lame.  The Fashion Museum at Bath is on my to-do hit list while I'm here in England as I believe it has a bigger collection of historical fashion.  I was fortunate enough to visit the Wedding Dresses 1775 - 2014 exhibition at the V&A when we first arrived in London last year.  I really appreciate the history, the handiwork and accessibility to enjoy such beautiful exhibitions, it really has been a highlight of life in London for me.

October 1, 2015

Discover: The True Cost of Fast Fashion

Two months ago I watched the brilliant documentary, The True Cost.  The movie highlighted the complexities of the Fast Fashion industry with a massive impact on our environment and the livelihoods of those who make our clothes.  It was moving, confronting and I'm pretty sure you will find it hard to watch without making any changes to your buying habits.

Photo: People Tree
Through the movie I discovered the inspiring brand, People Tree who are based here in London.  Not only do People Tree produce ethically made garments they also support rural communities by using organic cotton to produce their clothing, everything is produced with consideration for the planet and people. 

"Slow Fashion means standing up against exploitation, family separation, 
slum cities and pollution – all the things that make fast fashion so successful." 
Saffia Minney

Photo: People Tree
In the past the most ethical shopping I managed to do was buying costume jewellery that supported a good cause.  As a family we love a good thrift shop (hubby finds the best things - I do not!), I sew and fully believe in the handmade revolution :-)  But now I've been challenged to go one step further.

Photo: The Keep
I recently made my first intentional purchase of ethical clothing when I stumbled across this fabulous shop in Brixton, The Keep.  I was out on one of my exploring-London jaunts and was so thrilled to find a pair of jeans that I was in need of, they were ethically made, looked good and were comparably priced to brand name jeans!  Putting the cost of actual pounds aside, I am so happy every time I put them on knowing the cost of making my jeans did not negatively impact our environment nor another person's life... that my friend's is priceless.

Photo: The Keep
There was a great article in the Huffington Post UK recently about The Keep's owner Kate Richards and why she founded her sustainable boutique. A really great read and prompt to support local business over chain stores.
Photo: Better Dressed
Lastly, my friend Laura started a lovely blog, Better Dressed which has lots of practical ideas on how to change your wardrobe, where to find better brands and lots of interesting information on the garment industry etc... I know all the information can feel overwhelming at times but I strongly believe that if we all made at least one change in how we 'consume', the world would be a different place.